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QUESTION: We recently
"lost" a house purchase because we were
turned down by "PMI." We qualified for the
actual loan but not the PMI. What is PMI, how does it
work, and how can we avoid this problem in the future?
We are still shopping for a house.
ANSWER: Hopefully my answer
will convince you that there really is life without
PMI. PMI has been around for years and is exactly what
the name implies: private mortgage insurance. The
typical conventional lender will make a loan on your
single family residence (or up to four units) for up
to 80% of the sale price or appraised value of the
property, whichever is less. In the real world,
however, with Southern California's high real estate
prices, many people don't have a 20% down payment. PMI
is merely an insurance policy FOR THE LENDER for the
amount of the loan over 80%. If the lender therefore
makes an 85%, 90% or 95% loan, they will be insured by
PMI for the "risky" level above the standard
80% loan to value ratio. Let's not dwell on the
mechanics; let's look at the costs and related
problems.
Private mortgage insurance costs
you EACH YEAR somewhere between one third and three
quarters of 1% of your entire loan amount. The extra
cost for PMI on an 85% (of purchase price) loan would
be approximately 1/3 of 1% PER YEAR. On a $100,000
loan, that is a cost of $330 per year, year in and
year out. On a 90% loan the cost might be as much as
1/2 of 1% of the loan amount, and a 95% loan PMI might
be as high as 3/4% of 1% of your loan amount.
Obviously, the theory is the less down the more risk,
therefore a higher charge. Just imagine paying an
extra .75% on a $200,000 loan amount year after year.
That works out to $1,500 a year or almost $5,000 EXTRA
in just three years. Not only is this very expensive
and TOTALLY UNNECESSARY, but it also slows down or
even screws up the loan approval process, as you found
out on your first try. There is nothing more
frustrating than to be approved for a loan and then
delayed 3-4 days for a secondary approval by the PMI
company. This can be nerve wracking. |
There are many, many lenders in the
market today and they are very competitive. Most good
mortgage brokers can find a way around PMI. Some
lenders will make an 80% first trust deed AND a 10%
second trust deed. The interest rate on the second
trust deed may be slightly or substantially higher
than interest on the first trust deed. Though it has
been approximately 20 years since I have personally
sold real estate for a living, I assure you that when
I did sell real estate I was smart enough to work
around PMI.
The SELLER is, in fact, the easiest
way to avoid PMI. Not only will you save the costs and
delay of PMI, but you will also save the necessity of
an impound account with a bunch of money funded in
advance (out of your pocket) to fund the impound
account. If applicable, merely make your offer with
10% down and an 80% first trust deed, with the seller
carrying back a second trust deed in the amount of 10%
of the sale price. This is commonly referred to as an
"80/10/10 loan."
To make it simple, a $100,000
purchase would look something like this: The new first
trust deed would be $80,000. The seller would carry
back a second trust deed in the amount of $10,000 and
the buyer would put $10,000 down. This can work with
either 5, 10 or 15% down. If you have a good real
estate broker there should not be much of a trick in
persuading the seller to carry a second. If the seller
is physically not able to carry a second or just
doesn't want to, the second can still be carried and
the broker can arrange to have it sold during escrow.
Any good real estate broker or mortgage broker should
be able to help you avoid PMI completely on your next
offer. Hopefully, this is the last time you will ever
hear the words "private mortgage insurance."
Peter Rosenthal
VIP Trust Deed Company |